Touching the Sky in East Java: My Trekking Journey to Mount Raung via Bondowoso

It all started with a simple desire to take a different kind of vacation. I didn’t want beaches, cityscapes, or trendy cafés with picture-perfect aesthetics. I wanted something raw—something that made my heart race and my soul breathe. During a casual hangout with some friends, one name came up: Mount Raung. “You’re not a real hiker if you haven’t tried Raung,” one of them said. That was enough to spark my curiosity. A few hours of Googling later, I made my decision—I was going to climb Mount Raung via the Bondowoso route.

A Glimpse of Mount Raung

Mount Raung is a strikingly conical active volcano located in the eastern tip of Java, Indonesia. Uniquely, the mountain straddles three regencies in East Java: Banyuwangi, Jember, and Bondowoso. Its summit reaches 3,344 meters above sea level (MASL), making it one of the highest peaks in Java. But what makes it truly special is its massive caldera—nearly 2 kilometers wide and still active—offering a surreal and unforgettable sight once you reach the top.

How to Get to the Bondowoso Basecamp

The journey to Mount Raung began in Bondowoso, particularly at Kalibaru Basecamp or Pondok Motor. From the city center, it takes about two hours by motorbike or car to reach the basecamp. The road is full of winding turns and steep slopes, but the view of dense forests and sprawling coffee plantations keeps you entertained and energized.

If you’re coming from outside the city, the most common route is via Surabaya. You can take a bus or travel car to Bondowoso (around IDR 100,000–150,000), then continue to the basecamp via local motorbike taxi or shared pick-up truck (IDR 50,000–75,000). If you’re traveling in a group, splitting the cost of a pickup truck rental is a good option.

Costs and Permits

Before you start your hike, there are a few essentials to take care of, especially permits and registration. The hiking permit for Mount Raung via the Bondowoso route typically costs between IDR 25,000 and 35,000 per person, depending on the season and basecamp management.

You can also hire a porter (around IDR 300,000–400,000 per day) if you want to hike lighter. A guide is highly recommended, especially if this is your first time climbing Raung. The trail is no joke, and having a local expert with you can make all the difference.

The Trekking Experience: Tough Trails, Timeless Views

The Bondowoso route to Mount Raung is known for being physically demanding. The entire hike usually takes 3–4 days round trip, depending on your fitness and the weather. There are five main posts or checkpoints, starting from the forest trail all the way to the summit.

The first day’s hike begins with relatively gentle forest terrain, which then becomes steeper approaching Post 3. This is where most hikers camp for the night and prepare for the toughest part the next morning. Nights in Raung’s forest are freezing, but the peaceful symphony of nature makes it surprisingly easy to fall asleep.

Day two is the real test. From Post 5, you’ll enter the infamous “dragon’s tail”—a rocky ridge trail with deep cliffs on both sides. Some parts require crawling and rope support to pass. It's intense, nerve-wracking, and incredibly humbling. But the moment you set foot on the summit, all the fatigue and fear instantly melt away.

The view from the top is nothing short of spectacular. You’ll stand before one of Indonesia’s largest volcanic craters, emitting steam from its active core. At 3,344 MASL, the world looks endless. You’ll see a sea of clouds, distant mountain ranges, and sunlight that feels so close you could almost touch it.

Tips & Tricks for Hiking Mount Raung

1. Train Your Body First

Don’t take this hike lightly. Start jogging or do some light hikes at least a week before your trip to get your stamina up.

2. Pack the Essentials

Bring a sleeping bag, thick jacket, headlamp, hiking boots, and a raincoat. The weather on Raung changes quickly and can be unforgiving.

3. Hire a Guide if You're a First-Timer

Raung’s trails aren’t beginner-friendly. A guide can help you navigate safely and manage your pace.

4. Avoid the Rainy Season

Slippery rocks and landslides are real dangers. The best time to climb is from June to September during the dry season.

5. Bring Enough Food and Water

There are no water sources along the trail, so pack wisely and ration your supply.

6. Respect Nature and Follow Trail Etiquette

Carry out all your trash, keep noise to a minimum, and always be mindful that you're a guest in the wild.

Final Thoughts

Mount Raung isn’t just another mountain—it’s a personal challenge, a classroom of survival, and a spiritual experience all in one. Climbing Raung via Bondowoso was one of the most intense adventures I’ve ever had. It tested my limits, revealed my resilience, and gave me a deeper appreciation for nature’s raw beauty.

If you’re looking for a hike that’ll push you to your edge while rewarding you with unmatched views and stories to tell for a lifetime, Mount Raung is waiting. (*)