I had always been curious about Taman Nasional Baluran, a destination in Situbondo, East Java, that travelers often call the “Little Africa of Java.” That nickname alone was enough to catch my attention. So when I finally had the chance to explore this hidden gem, I packed my bag, booked a night in Situbondo, and prepared for a nature trip that promised wide-open savannas, wildlife encounters, and the raw beauty of East Java’s wild side.
My journey began in the town of Situbondo, a quiet coastal spot that often gets overlooked on the usual tourist trail. I arrived the night before, choosing to stay in a modest guesthouse near the main road. It was a strategic decision. Situbondo sits just about an hour away from the entrance of Baluran National Park, making it the perfect base camp for a morning adventure.
The next day, I woke before sunrise, grabbed a quick breakfast of kopi hitam and fried banana from a street vendor, and set off on a rented motorbike. The road from Situbondo to Baluran took me through sleepy villages and rice fields drenched in morning mist. The cool air, the calm roads, and the soft sound of the wind. It all felt like a gentle invitation into the wilderness.
By 7 AM, I reached the park’s entrance. After paying the affordable entry fee and chatting with the park rangers, I rode through the gate and into a completely different world. The air shifted, the vegetation thickened, and in just a few kilometers, the forest began to open up into a sweeping savanna. Towering acacia trees dotted the landscape, and in the distance, the majestic Mount Baluran stood silently like a guardian of the land.
I paused at Bekol Savannah, the heart of the park, and was greeted by the sight of a small herd of banteng grazing peacefully. These wild cattle, along with deer, monkeys, and colorful birds, roam freely here protected and thriving.
The silence of the savanna was broken only by the occasional rustle of grass or birdcall. Standing there, surrounded by golden fields and distant volcanic hills, I couldn’t help but feel like I’d stepped into a scene from a wildlife documentary.
From Bekol, I continued my ride to Bama Beach, located at the eastern edge of the park. The road narrowed and twisted through coastal forest, eventually revealing a peaceful beach lined with mangroves. Unlike the popular beaches of Bali or Lombok, Bama was quiet and serene. The water was clear, and the only footprints on the sand were mine and those of a local fisherman hauling his morning catch.
After a simple lunch of nasi bungkus I had packed earlier, I wandered along the mangrove trail, spotting mudskippers, crabs, and birds hidden among the tangled roots. It was here, surrounded by the gentle rhythm of the sea and the soft hum of nature, that I found one of the park’s most unexpected treasures: complete solitude.
As the sun began to dip, I rode back to Bekol to catch the sunset from the observation tower. The savanna was bathed in golden light, and long shadows stretched across the dry grass. In the distance, peacocks strutted confidently while deer grazed unbothered by my presence. It felt almost surreal—like time had slowed down to let me take it all in.
By 6 PM, I exited the park and returned to Situbondo under a sky full of stars. My helmet visor carried the scent of dry earth, salt air, and something else, something wilder. I couldn’t stop smiling the whole ride back.
Final Thoughts
Taman Nasional Baluran is a rare gem in East Java. Raw, untouched, and wildly beautiful. From the quiet savannas of Bekol to the tranquil shores of Bama Beach, every corner of this park tells a story of natural resilience and wonder. Staying in Situbondo gave me the chance to enjoy the park without rushing, and I recommend it to anyone looking to experience the wild heart of Java in a more immersive way.
Come with an open heart, a camera, and plenty of time that you’ll want to remember every second.
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