A Hidden Gem on Lake Maggiore
Nestled along the northern shore of Lake Maggiore, where Italy meets Switzerland, lies a serene and picturesque area that exudes charm. The skies are clear, the air is fresh, and the pace of life is so slow it almost feels like time is moving horizontally. Among the many treasures in this region, Ascona stands out as a hidden gem. This sun-drenched town, with its palm trees and charming piazzas, offers a landscape just as breathtaking as its more famous neighbor, Como.
Ascona is situated between towering alpine peaks and the shimmering waters of the lake, making it the lowest-lying town in Switzerland. Its cobbled streets, colorful lakeside cafés, and a subtropical climate give it a distinct Mediterranean flair. Despite its beauty, the town remains largely untouched by mass tourism. Even during peak season, there’s no rush for sunbeds or crowded attractions.
Ascona: The New Como?
Eight years ago, I spent several months working in Lugano, a grand Swiss resort just an hour away from Ascona. On weekends, I explored nearby villages but never made it to Ascona. It seems that many tourists also overlook this enchanting town. Unlike other destinations, Ascona doesn’t have a railway station, so visitors typically arrive via Locarno, a neighboring town, and then take a bus or taxi to reach Ascona in under 15 minutes.
When I visited in late May, I found it easy to secure a table at any waterfront restaurant. Ferries were only partially full, and the pedestrian promenade was quiet yet lively. Glittering yachts bobbed gently in the water, and speedboats zipped across the marina. The atmosphere was elegant and inviting, with no signs of tourist overload.
In contrast, Como, just an hour south of the border, has become a hotspot for tourism. Over the past decade, the town has seen millions of visitors each year, leading to calls for a Venice-style tourist tax. While Como grapples with the challenges of overtourism, Ascona is eager to welcome more guests—but only if they come in the right way.
Things to See and Do in Ascona
Ascona is undeniably beautiful, though it comes with a price tag. Approximately 40 of the town's 5,000 residents are millionaires, and the cost of living reflects that. A pint of local beer can set you back around £8, while a main course at a mid-range restaurant ranges from £18 to £36 before drinks. However, some of the best experiences here are free.
A day spent exploring Ascona on foot is highly recommended. Stroll along the esplanade that hugs the lake and wander through the hillside Old Town, rich in medieval and Renaissance history. During the summer, a daily artisan market offers free samples, and narrow alleyways hide glamorous boutiques perfect for window shopping.
For a budget-friendly treat, try the £5 cantucci (almond cookies) from Pasticceria Pinotti or enjoy a scoop of sorbet from one of the quaint gelaterias. Just outside the town, there’s a lido and a public beach where families can picnic and cool off in the pristine glacial water. The views from Monte Verità , a spiritual refuge just a 15-minute walk from the center, are unforgettable, especially at sunset.
Jazz Festival and More
Ascona may be small, but it hosts one of Europe’s largest jazz festivals each summer. Now in its 40th year, Jazz Ascona celebrates its sister city, New Orleans, with over 200 free concerts featuring jazz, blues, swing, and gospel. Hotel prices soar during the event, so staying in nearby Italian resorts like Verbania or Stresa might be a better option.
Where to Stay in Ascona
For budget-conscious travelers, Vista Lakefront Boutique offers single rooms from £116 and doubles from £170, all within walking distance of the lake. For those seeking luxury, Hotel Eden Roc is a five-star option with double rooms starting at £475, including a fabulous breakfast.
Day Trips from Ascona
One must-visit destination is the Brissago Islands, home to a stunning botanical garden with 1,700 exotic species. After exploring the gardens, enjoy an affogato or Aperol Spritz at Villa Emden before returning to the mainland. The ferry ride takes about 20 minutes, with round-trip tickets costing around £20 plus £9 for entry.
Switzerland’s efficient public transport system makes traveling easy. From Ascona, a 10-minute drive to Locarno opens up opportunities to explore the Centovalli Railway, a scenic route through a lush valley. Trains connect Locarno to Lugano, Zurich, Geneva, and Bern, with many routes offering seamless transfers.
How to Get to Ascona from the UK
Traveling to Ascona from the UK is surprisingly straightforward. The cheapest option is to fly into Milan Malpensa, which has direct flights from major UK airports. From there, hourly trains cross the border to Lugano, and a train to Locarno arrives on the same platform. A taxi ride to Ascona takes approximately 10 minutes.
A 48-Hour Itinerary
Day 1: Start your journey on the lakeside promenade, visit the daily markets, and take a ferry to the Brissago Islands. Spend two hours exploring the gardens and enjoy a meal at Villa Emden. Relax at the lido or public beach, and end the night with dinner at Restaurant Eden Roc and a cocktail in the hotel piano bar.
Day 2: Rent e-bikes and explore the trails around Locarno. Stop for coffee at Muyu and pastries at Pasticceria Pinotti. Hike to the Castelliere Ruins for a sunset view, then enjoy dinner at Locanda Barbarossa and a glass of wine at Sea Lounge.
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